Exeter - A city from time immemorial

Today was mainly spent in the City of Exeter, a city which Wikipedia maintains has been a City since Time Immemorial - that is a time before memories and history were recorded.

Exeter Cathedral

Breakfast at Lympstone Manor  

Before our visit to Exeter the day began at Lympstone Manor. The bed in the Dunlin Room at Lympstone was incredibly comfortable, but, as is usual on a holiday. I was awake by 4.30am and got up to post yesterday's photos on to Flickr and to begin the first of yesterday's blog posts.

At 7.30am when went down for breakfast and were sat in the same table as we had been for dinner the night before. Breakfast is served from 7.30am to 10am at Lympstone Manor, but we are always keen to get there early!

There was a large range of cereals, dried fruit, nuts, yoghurts etc available to choose from 

along with the cooked items and other items made to order. On that front Drew went with a Lemon Curd and I ordered Weetabix with hot water - which is my preferred way of eating this breakfast cereal. This caused no comment or confusion and was soon served. I sublimated it with dried fruit (banana, peach and plum) and nuts (hazelnuts and almonds). Which had the benefit of not only being tasty, but giving a good selection for my microbiome to be working on.

When it came to the cooked food, it being Friday, a day when we Catholics are encouraged to abstain from meat as a penance, I watched as Drew had a lovely cooked breakfast that he explained (as part of my penance) was extremely tasty and he was sad I was missing!! [Co-pilot's note: It was a shame, dear reader, as the bacon was cooked just as he would love it, nice and crispy, and the sausage had a high meat, low moisture content - it was lovely.]

I, in an unusual choice for me, opted for the smashed avocado on toasted campagna bread with a poached egg and smoked salmon. It turned out to be much tastier than I expected as the avocado was salty and had a zing of lemon through it. It had the virtue of making me feel very virtuous. I could hear my inner Tim Spector of Zoe commending my choices on behalf of my gut 😉 He is a firm advocate of Avocado, a fruit for which I don't normally have much time.

Travelling to Exeter

After breakfast we went back to our room, I loaded more photos and wrote the blog post about Thursday night's dinner. We packed and took the bags to the car before checking out after a wonderful stay.

From Lympstone Manor to Exeter is a nine mile drive. We had decided having not been to Exeter by car before to go to one of the well-advertised Park and Ride places that surround the city and bus it into the City Centre. 

The route we took, advised by Google Maps, which provides directions through the car's Android Auto interface advised we turn off the A376 and travel via Topsham, as shown above. We soon passed the Welcome to Exeter sign, followed as we crossed the River Exe with a welcome to Topsham, the ancient port, sign.

Park and Ride

We arrived at Honiton Road Park and Ride, parked the car in a large spacious car park and within ten minutes were on the bus into the City of Exeter.

Exeter

As mentioned at the top of this post Exeter has been a City since the time before the concept of cities had existed. Its commanding position at the end of the Exe Estuary has made it a centre of trade and government since the Iron ages. 

There is evidence in Southernhay, the historic heart of the City of human habitation in 200BCE (before the Christian era), by 60BCE the Roman General, later to be Emporar, Vespasian arrived with the Second Augustan Legion and established a wooden military fortress in Exeter of 42 acres. In a connection back to my home country, it was this same Legion that then went to establish its base in the City of Legions (Caerleon) in Wales.

In Roman times the City was known as Isca Dumnoniorum, which translates as Capital of the Dumnonii, the Celtic tribe which ruled the whole of the South West both before and after the period of Roman Rule. 

As the Saxon's arrived in this area the City changed its name to Moncton as it was the location of a large number of priories and abbeys. 

By 928, King Athelstone, son of Wessex's then England's first king Alfred lived in the town and called it Excanceaster (with the river name linked to the Saxon word for Roman enclosure, a word commonly found in English place names - Manchester and Winchester for example). Overtime this became corrupted to Exeter. 

The Exeter Guildhall celebrates this history when, on the outside of the building, built above the old Roman bath house, it claims its existence from 80AD to 1980AD. 

Coffee Time

The marketers of Costa Coffee had managed to get Drew an offer for his birthday of a cake when he bought a coffee. So after our first exploration of the City we went to use this offer. Drew's birthday was yesterday, but the offer was up to seven days, so into Costa we went for an Americano for me and a Latte for Drew along with his choice of a free baked goods item. He choose a Lemon Muffin.

Exeter Cathedral

After coffee we went to visit a number of Exeter's Churches. I mentioned earlier that Exeter was known for a short period as Moncton (monk town) and this history is evidence in the large number of churches in the centre of the City - these are St. Stephen’s, St. Pancras’, St. Petrock’s, St. Olave’s and St. Martin’s all within sight of each other and three within site of the major church of Exeter - Exeter Cathedral. More details of each of the churches can be discovered here. We visited three of them, St. Stephen's with its underpass, meaning the altar area is raised from the body of the Church and accessed by steps:

St. Martin's known for the colour of his stone as the Gingerbread Church.

St. Petrock's, now closed to facilitate Covid and post-Covid homeless accommodation in the city, but with access to its impressive bell room.

But, as already mentioned, most impressive of all, within its own grounds from which the rest of the City radiates is the Cathedral dedicated, as so many Norman Cathedrals are, to St. Peter. Founded in 1050 when the first Bishop of Exeter, Bishop Leofric moved, with papal approval, his see from Crediton to Exeter as the latter town developed and grew. 

The outside facade of the Cathedral is pictured at the top of this post. The inside is equally impressive with the North and South Transepts dating from the 12th century with the building being renovated and extended in 1270 and again in 1328.

The ceiling at 315 feet is the longest continuous medieval stone vault in the world. The multiple bosses, many of them finely decorated, aren't just there for decoration but as keystones locking the vaulting together. 

The above are some examples of the bosses, but there are many more examples, along with lots of other images from the Cathedral on Flickr, if you start here you can scroll left through all the Cathedral images.

Back to the Car

After two hours in the Cathedral and another walk along Exeter's central street, called High Street, we returned to the bus stop for the twelve-minute journey back to the Park and Ride. Our journey from Exeter to Exmouth, our home from home for the next two weeks, will be the subject of my next blog post. See you then!

Dinner at Lympstone Manor

While this afternoon in the grounds of Lympstone Manor was a real treat, the real reason for us coming here was neither the beauty of the landscape, nor the great accommodation. No, as will come as no surprise to anyone who knows us, it was all about the food.

We have seen Michael Caines MBE on television many, many times. From his first competition in Great British Menu, to his mentoring of others on that programme and on MasterChef he has long been a chef whose food we had wanted to try. His influences, having worked with Raymond Blanc at Le Manoir aux Quat’Saisons, Bernard Loiseau at Saulieu and Joél Robuchon in Paris led us to expect great British produce treated with the flavour and creativity of French influenced cooking and that expectation was not disappointed by tonight’s meal.

We went down to the lounge at 6.30pm for aperitives. Drew opted for Lime Cordial and I for Elderflower Cordial both served with sparking water. These were light and refreshing. 

While we sat there the food began with three light canapes, from right to left these are a pea and cheese puff, a duck tartare tart and something described as mushroom on honey. The puff was fresh and full of the summary texture of freshly cut garden peas with a warming cheese background. The tartlet, the star of the canapes for both of us, was light, short and melt in the mouth. The tang of duck, with the micro herbs and flowers did a little dance on the tongue before they were consumed. The small mushroom gel on a slightly sweetened, but very fancily constructed light biscuit base was earthy, but didn’t really impact as much as the previous two canapes. Still a good start.

We had a chance, while drinking of aperitifs and eating our canapes to look at the menus, we opted for the Signature Tasting Menu which has a good mix of seafood, fish, vegetables and meat; there was a Taste of the Estuary option which would have suited our pescatarian friends alongside the A La Carte options. 

Following our canapes, we were led to the dining room, which is on the side of the house and gives lovely views of the estuary, though with the quality of food which was to come we spent most time looking at what we were eating than outside. 

We were served with a bread basket with three types of bread a French baguette, a Honey bread roll (Drew had both of these, them being to sweet for me) and a French flour with rye loaf with black olive and sundried tomatoes, the olives and tomatoes worked as little bursts of flavour in the dark strong bread.

Our first course was roasted Lyme Bay scallop with celeriac purée, Oscietra caviar, seaweed beurre blanc. As soon as the plate was laid before us we knew we had come to the right place. The delightful firmness of the scallop was well complimented by the dabs of earthy celeriac puree on top and the salty caviar. The whole thing was sitting in a buttery sauce with seaweed acting as the seasoning. With the main elements eaten we were able to order a ‘little’ extra bread to mop up the delightful sauce. I’m not sure one is supposed to mop up sauces in 1 star Michelin restaurants, but when the flavour is this good, who cares about convention.

Our second course was another revelation of how simple ingredients can be prepared and combined to make a masterpiece of flavour. This was the Isle of Wight tomato salad, with tomato and lemon verbena consommé, vanilla and tomato vinaigrette. From halved cheery tomatoes, through tiny peeled tomatoes of a different variety to the basil and nasturtium leaves and little vanilla gel all with additional richness of flavour created by the cool and refreshing consommé. With all that going on in the plate, the dish was accompanied by a decorated tomato biscuit with intense gazpacho tasting gel. I could have eaten this again and again it was so delightful, but I guess that would have spoiled my appetite for what is to come, but it is a reminder of the fact that simple ingredients treated well can be the very best of foods. 

Our third course was salted Newlyn cod with lemon purée, Lyme Bay crab, samphire and chorizo. The cod was delicately cooked, just to the point where it firmed up, but no further, the crab and lemon gel were on top and the samphire was the base on which the cod rested, this was served with a chorizo flavoured form which, rather than competing with the salted cod brought out the richness of its flavour. While I’ve had morcilla (black pudding) with samphire before, I’ve never had chorizo used in this way – and wow, it really does work. 

The fourth course was Creedy carver duckling, topped by a generous slice of black truffle with pickled beetroot three ways, pomegranate molasses, Szechuan pepper, five spice jus. The duck was tender and pink full of flavour, but for me the most amazing items on this plate was the variety of treatment of beetroot. This earthy salad veg is often either treated as something to be pickled and brought out at Christmas or sliced into a salad as a bit of filling, but presented like this it is an amazing treat. There was a pickled mini-beetroot, there was a beetroot finely sliced and then rolled into a larger size – this is the one on the opposite side from the mini one, then it was pureed into a gel and finally some of the gel was used as a barrier to keep the jus centred on the plate. Each very inventive in its own right and amazing as a combination. 

The fifth course was Darts Farm lamb, ratatouille, boulangère potato, smoked aubergine purée, lamb split jus. We often cook boulangère potatoes at home, knowing that they come from the days when France was facing a cost of heating/cooking problem and clever French cooks would cook their potato dish in the baker’s oven as it cooled down after baking bread – hence the strange name baker’s potatoes. However, no boulangère potatoes we have ever cooked have had the intensity and depth of flavour managed here at Lympstone Manor. The tiny dabs of puree on top were enough to lift the already rich slices of potato to something of elegance. Another clever example of a food, created originally by poor people who had to eke out their living becoming a luxury. The ratatouille has a similar story originally made by flavouring left over vegetables, as nothing could be thrown away, again (though you can’t see it in the photo as the lamb is resting on it) this was treated with care. The poor junior chef who had to cut these vegetables so small deserves lots of praise. The lamb was soft and tender, never as good as Welsh lamb I hear you say, but perfectly fine.  

The next course was of one of my favourite cheeses, Beauvale blue cheese. This was served with black truffle (a nice salty addition) and honey and quince, which I don’t understand, as I can’t imagine anyone wanting sugary cheese! I was able to extract the cheese undamaged from the sweet stuff and enjoyed its rich complex flavour crafted so well from peak district milk in Nottinghamshire. 

The next course, our seventh (or eighth if you count canapes) was a simple Passion fruit mousse with passion fruit sorbet, coconut foam and a dried passion fruit crisp – sharp and not overly sweet this was a nice palette cleanser after the rich cheese. 

The eighth course was one of those desserts where Drew had to volunteer (he’ll say against his better judgement, but we know better) to eat both, to save me having too much sugar. [Co-pilot's note: I, dear readers, am a martyr to having excess desserts (and petits fours) thrust upon me.] It was a 41% Belgian Alunga milk chocolate mousse with a malt ice cream. Drew reports that the malt ice cream was delicate light and airy. The mousse had a lovely smooth texture and was a milk chocolate unlike many desserts which have dark chocolate. I prefer the milk flavour. He enjoyed both versions and would happily have one, two or more again!

We finished with coffee and petits fours, we both had espressos and the petits fours were Lemon Madeleines and Pistachio and almond nougat.

A lovely meal with all the delicacy and balance of flavour we have come to expect of a one Michelin star establishment. The service was impeccable, with each member of staff showing a real interest in our wants and needs. 

Having started with canapes at 6.30pm it was 10.30pm by the time we had finished and got back to the room.

 

A relaxing afternoon at Lympstone Manor

As I mentioned at the end of my last post we spent the afternoon wandering the 18-acre grounds of Lympstone Manor. 

The grounds, which run all the way from the Manor House down to the Ex estuary are well tended and managed. As we walked, we benefitted from the different way the land was used and even took advantage of some of the seats.

 

First, we walked through the vineyard, planted with Pinot Meunier grapes which have been producing wine for the estate. Planted in 2018, the vines produced their first wine in 2020, called Triassic Pinot Noir 2020, which is on sale at the restaurant and the poolside bar. The sparking Lympstone Manor Cuvée 

is now laid down ready for its first release in 2023. 



As we strolled through the vineyard we met Andrew Hunt, the vineyard manager who was strimming the grass at the base of the vines, so that the cool air running through the vines from the estuary was able to benefit their growth. Many of the best wines in the world grow beside waters (the Gironde, Rhône, Loire, Rhine and Douro come to mind) so why not the Ex. On a warm summers day like today, the way the gentle sea breeze wafter almost straight up the line of vines to cool us on our walk was evidence there is some science, not just luck, in this arrangement. 

Leaving the vineyard we came to the foreshore and the Shepard Huts, which form an alternative way of staying at Lympstone for those who wish to be close to nature. The huts are around a small lake and are quaintly named after the home of animal homes, for example: Otter Holt, Hare’s Rest, Hedgehog Row, Bee Hive and Fox Den. These accommodations share a common barbeque area and a number of them had hot tubs. And while I'm not one for 'roughing it' I suspect there would be nothing rough about staying in one of these.

The next part of the walk took us to a series of gently draining lakes. I'm reminded, as I walk past, of the details of such natural draining schemes being outlined in The Archers about eight or so years ago when one was implemented in Bridge Farm - yes, you guessed it, any agricultural information I've ever gained has always come from Ambridge folk!! [Co-pilot's note: I, dear readers, have "benefitted" many, many times from his "expertise" on pig management learned from Jazzer in the Archers.]

Alongside the lakes runs the Ladies Walk, which was a Georgian invention for the Ladies to wander while the men had their brandy and cigars after dinner. The Walk runs around the edge of the estate and as well as the ponds leads you to the Pool, Tennis Courts and back up to the main house and back to more of the amazing sculptures which are around the house and grounds. 

The Ladies Walk also includes a quaint 'Marry Me' swing accompanied by a quote from the days when young lovers had trysts in the woods - or maybe they still do!!

While we weren't rushing our walk, we took a good two hours just meandering and enjoying the warm summer air with gentle seaside breezes and beautiful views over the estuary, down to Exmouth and the sea beyond. 

On our way

 

Cardiff to Lympstone Manor

The start of a holiday is always, for me, a time of real excitement. Even from the days of my childhood when my parents would drive us all the way (all 7 miles; but in those days it felt like 700!) to a caravan in Oxwich, the thrill of the different of being away has always filled me with both a sense of anticipation and an excitement when it arrives and today is no different.

Having packed we took the, now traditional, photo of Captain Jack our travelling companion with the luggage.   

This year the luggage was complimented by the chocolate and pork scratchings snacks my sister delivered yesterday, as I described in yesterday's post. 

Honda E

Last year when deciding to buy an electric car, we considered the impact it might have on UK based holidays. The Honda E is a perfect town car, it gets me to Mass each day, to the supermarket once a week and Drew to see his mother once a fortnight, but it isn't built for lots of luggage or long distance with a maximum range of 130 miles. 

At the time we discussed renting a car for long trips, but since buying it electronic charging has become so ubiquitous that we decided we would have no problem taking it with us (or is it it taking us?). 

We packed the car with luggage, which given the boot space means the boot and the back seats and headed off.

The Journey

As the map at the top of today's blog post shows the journey was a simple one. M4, M49, M5 and then onto the A376 for six miles.

Zapmap, that invaluable app, which I now use to plan any journey outside of Cardiff, suggested a midpoint stop at the Instavolt Charge Station at Heron Gate on the outskirts of Taunton and so we did.

As the yellow M at the top of the picture indicates the Instavolt Chargers were in the car park of McDonald's, so Drew, who regularly nags me [Co-pilot's note: I, dear readers, prefer to consider it as a polite reminder] for not letting him have McDonald's often enough, was able to treat himself to a Double Quarter Pounder with cheese, fries and diet coke while I opted for the Spanish Stack which included chilli cheddar cheese and a bravas sauce. 

While Drew is a competent McDonald's eater, it became clear that I am not. Drew kindly took this photo of me with bits of bravas sauce on the face and hands as the centre of the burger seemed to try and escape from the bun when I bit into it. [Co-pilot's note:Some of you, dear readers, may remember the photo of Ed Miliband trying to eat a bacon sandwich - imagine that times 10,000, it was quite remarkable] 

36 Mins and 17kwh (kilowatt hours) later we were on the road again with the car at 94% charge. It had gone from 96% (125 miles range) to 36% (47 miles range) on the first part of the journey.  

Lympstone Manor

We arrived at Lympstone Manor at 2.10pm and parked in the lovely shaded car park, walking through a woodland path from the car to the hotel. 

The hotel is in a lovely setting just beside the Ex estuary with views towards the river and the sea.

The little buggies beside the door are for staff and guests to go back to their cars for luggage. We managed to pick ours up and walk back with it, as the distance wasn't huge.

We checked in and were shown to our room - The Dunlin (all the rooms are named for birds) - and quickly settled in with the help of some lovely tea and coffee making facilities and Lemon Drizzle cake for Drew and fruit.

 

We spent an hour relaxing before going out for a walk in the wonderful grounds - more of that in my next post.